Denimation 201: Thou Shalt Obey

This past Thursday (Oct. 29) Levi’s and acclaimed artist/designer Shepard Fairey launched their collaborative limited edition collection. The Obey x Levi’s collection apparently boasts two pairs of denim  (511 & 514 cut), two denim jackets (one of which is below), and a mess load of tops (a flannel, and some tees). And get this…price-point: $34.50 – $148!

Here are some details from the release:

SAN FRANCISCO (October 19, 2009) – This October, the Levi’s® brand – the name responsible for the invention of the blue jean – continues its ever-evolving relationship with acclaimed street artist Shepard Fairey by unveiling Obey x Levi’s®, a collection of co-designed, street-inspired styles for men. Obey x Levi’s® is a celebration of the renegade spirit embraced by both pioneering partners and features denim silhouettes, distress details, and finishes inspired by Fairey’s personal collection of Levi’s® jeanswear and collaboratively developed by Levi’s® and Fairey.

The highly collectible Obey x Levi’s® capsule collection will be carried exclusively at select Levi’s® Store locations in New York City, San Francisco, Chicago and Santa Monica and at http://www.levi.com. It will be available beginning October 29 and will range in price from $34.50 to $148. To commemorate the launch of the collection, on October 29 Fairey will unveil a series of four new poster designs at a live art installation outside The Levi’s® Store in New York City’s Times Square. Once Fairey completes the installation, he will meet-and-greet event participants while autographing free museum-quality reproductions of his new posters.

Denimation 201: The Blueprint ThrEvisu

 

“These ain’t Diesel…These is Evisu….I’ll show you how to do this, son.” – Jay-Z

**NEWS**

NYC – After a brief hiatus, the iconic premium denim giant, Evisu, has returned to reclaim its niche in the evolving denim market. Under the creative direction of Scott Morrison (see Earnest Sewn, Paper Denim), Evisu has re-branded itself, taking interest in new washes and deconstructed materials while maintaining its classic values. Beginning in November, Evisu will launch a new product line exclusively at Barney’s. The release will include 3 collections, prices ranging from $150 - $700/pair: Evisu Genes, Evisu, and Private Stock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

u|T|ø says — This is one of those moral connundrums. On one hand, Evisu is a GREAT brand. The majority of their products have excellent craftsmanship! One of our Editors owned a pair of Evisu’s (that’s what we called them back in undergrad) that, when worn, made everybody want to burn their denim on site. BUT, fast-forward to now…with competitive brands producing premium denim (i.e. A.P.C., G-Star, Citizens of Humanity, 7 for all Mankind), just as well-crafted, just as alluring, what makes the NEW and IMPROVED Evisu stand out?

Denimation 201: Bite Me

Back for the FIFTH time, Levi’s has teamed up with designer KAWS to bring us Urban Grads a Levi’s x Original Fake mash-up. The line features the infamous “chompers” on the back pockets of the re-edition of the 1947 and 1955 Levi’s 501 models. There is also a much baggier cargo pocket jean that was inspired by the Original Fake line. If I had to have anything more on my back pockets then this would be it. The teeth don’t overpower the back of your jean. They are a nice statement piece that say “this is a pair of Levi’s“…but something more.

These limited edition Levi’s can be purchased at Colette’s…if they aren’t already sold out.

Denimation 201: Warrior Chic

Warrior chic really got its push from the gladiator sandal, however…the designers over at Acne Jeans decided to take it one step further. Their Spring/Summer 2010 skinny denim line features metallic plates or armor fashioned along the thigh, knee, or shin of the pant leg. We’re not sure whether the inspiration behind this is Joan of Arc, Xena – Warrior Princess, or that Beyonce robot suit (designed by Thierry Mugler), but…yea — to each his/her own. What do you think about Acne Armored Jeans?

Denimation 201: Industrial [Re]evolution

It may not be a rodeo show, but Denim Button-down Shirts have found their way back into the market. The modern take on this classic garment is to use darker, finer denim or denim blends (as opposed to light-colored, heavier denim of the past), and to incorporate intricate stitchwork. Military pockets, pearl buttons, and bi-tonal interiors have been added to create the “Industrial-chic” look. Give these a try:

(in order: Double-Faced Military Shirt by S2VS; Pen Chambray Jacket by Woolrich Woolen Mills; ACNE x Lanvin; Raf Simons denim suit; Denim Demon)

Denimation 201: Sulphur Dyeing [suhl-fer dahy-ing]

Apparently colored denim has been awakened from it’s deathly slumber by radiation from a fallen satellite.  Or was it from deadly gas released from a medical supply warehouse?  Wait, I know what it was…celebrities like Rihanna and Fergie were spotted wearing colored denim jeans.  Colored denim is cool but you have to know when to relax.  We are in the Fall season so it’s time to tone down the brightness for richer colors.

Denimation 201: Jeaniology [jeen-ee-ol-uh-jee]

Upon popular request I have been asked to explain certain “dynamics” of women’s  jeans.  I’m sure a lot of Urban Grads have noticed that girls have just gotten waAay more curvy.  It’s rare you see a woman in those “Wal-Mart cubby” jeans that make their rear end look like it’s four feet tall (unless they are just really, really old school or a senior citizen).  That’s because women’s jeans have become a frickin’ science.

WARNING: This post may either give girls who want to appear more curvy hope OR make them more self-conscious about the jeans that they buy.

Here’s a quick run-through…

Hudson: Boot Cut Jeans

True Religion: Joey Stretch Jeans

These particular pairs of jeans have curved, button flap pockets.  The curved pocket gives the appearance of roundness; while the buttons add volume.  These two features together give the appearance of a more curved bottom.

Lofli: Denim Trousers

These trousers have angled pockets flaps which give the appearance of roundness to an otherwise flat rear.  Actually, curved seams have always been used to give the appearance of a rounder figure.

Chip & Pepper: Stella Straight Leg

These work because the waistband on these jeans goes up slightly in the back, adding a lifted look the seat of these jeans.

So there you have it, if eating more starches doesn’t give you the curves you want then look for jeans with the aforementioned attributes.  BUT WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT RESORT TO THIS…

…Keep your love locked down and scream NO NO, NO, NO NO to this God-awful contraption.  P.S. small behind = jeans with small pockets; larger behind = jeans with larger pockets.

[courtesy of instyle.com]

Denimation 201: Organic [awr-gan-ik]

Urban Graduates,

Class is in session once again on the subject that all fashionistas, trendsetters, and tastemakers alike relish in discussing.  Lesson 2: ORGANIC denim…the Green Life.  Since GREEN IS THE NEW BLACK in 2008 and probably beyond, I’m going to talk about the jeans that Mother Nature herself would wear.  Trust me, you won’t look like a stylish tree-hugger when you go organic because organic denim looks like any other premium denim.  Off course the big names are jumping on the green bandwagon…7forallmankind, LeVI’S, and Nudie Jeans to name a few…

 

 

 

 

Here are a pair of jeans from the LeVI’S Eco line [Sidenote...the cut of the pockets on these jeans makes for not very effective pockets.  Stuff will fall out all the time if the jeans aren't fitted enough]. 

 

 

 

 

Up next, are a pair of organic Nudie Jeans for women with the Yosemite wash.  [I really didn't understand how the organic cotton used for the denim was really beneficial to the environment, but Nudie clears that all up on their website..."Denim is made of cotton, which causes great damage to our environment both in terms of water consumption (7000 to 29.000 litres of water for each kilogram of ready garment) and in terms of poisonous substances and insecticides. Cotton fields stand for 25% of all insecticides worldwide!"*].  So apparently, producing the denim organically is more ecologically friendly.

 

 

BUT…being that I’m an Urban Grad, you know I have to root for the underdogs doing their thing as well.  Here are a pair of organic jeans from Sharkah Chakra:

 

 

However, KUYICHI claims to have been using organic cotton for their jeans since 2001 (LeVI’S started in 2006).  So if this is true, big shout out to their group for being style innovators and therein true Urban Graduates.  

 

 

*(above quote courtesy of http://nudiejeans.com/thisisnudie/organic.php)

Denimation 201: Selvedge [sel-vij]

Urban Graduates,

This is lesson one in a class about the wonderful world of denim.  The class on what denim actually is was covered in Denimation 101…but that was the basics.  As Urban Graduates you are now specializing in the fashion field so there is no need to backtrack.  Lesson 1: You say selvage…I say SELVEDGE.  

Selvedge, or “self-edge” denim has always been hot but pricey because of its high quality.  Selvedge denim is made on old-style shuttle looms that produces a narrower fabric than the newer and more commonly used projectile loom.  This produces a more tightly weaved denim that lasts longer.  In Selvedge denim, you can see the actual edge in the outseam where the weaving has stopped (as opposed to projectile looms where the fabric has been cut off at the ends resulting in lighter and less durable jeans).  The selvedge edge is usually stitched with a colored thread…red being the most common.  In the past, to acquire a pair of selvedge jeans you would have to buy some vintage jeans or go to Japan.  Prices for a pair of premium selvedge jeans usually range somewhere from 200-300 U.S. dollars.  But now, thanks to Uniqlo (they’re the “Japanese H&M”) you can acquire a pair of premium selvedge jeans for around eighty bucks.  Unsure if the jeans are selvedge…cuff em and look for the signature selvedge edges located along the outseam of the jeans!